Showing posts with label Nova Scotia. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Nova Scotia. Show all posts

Saturday, August 23, 2008

August 2008 Family Vacation Part 4

August 7


One of the reasons I heartily endorsed Sam’s selection of Nova Scotia as a destination for his Golden Birthday trip was that I have always wanted to see the tidal bore in the Bay of Fundy. I have always imagined a wall of water at least 3 feet high, maybe higher, traveling up the bay and its feeder rivers at breakneck speed. I knew that the Bay of Fundy experiences the highest tide level change in the world with a few others close behind, including the TurnAgain Arm south of Anchorage in Alaska, but we had not observed it there while we drove past several years ago. So, the Bay of Fundy was an exciting destination for me. When I started my trip research I was trying to find a place we could stay with a great view and tried to get us an overnight stay in a lighthouse, but that didn’t work out.







However, what I did find was a wonderful alternative! You may have heard about our past experiences with white water rafting. Last summer we did a river in Oregon with Class 3 and 4+ rapids. Imagine our delight when I told everyone we would be rafting the tidal bore. After suiting up in outfits that we assumed would keep us dry, the journey started peacefully enough on the motorized raft with the guide explaining the tides and we also saw a number of bald eagles.

















After about 45 minutes heading downstream on the Shubenachadie River (say that 3 times fast), we stopped to have some fun mudsliding. Sam gathered so much mud in one ear that it took the rest of the raft trip to wash clean.






Finally, rinsing off









And then we headed back downstream, got off to stand on a sand bar/island in the middle of the river. Soon the people from other rafts lower down channel than us started running to their rafts, and our guide calmly said it was time for us to head back also. I had my first surprise---at that place in the wide river, the tidal bore was about six inches high! However, the island where we had stood about 3 feet over the level of the water was covered completely within 10 minutes! And THEN, the action started. While the bore itself is not exactly where the action is during the raft ride, the swirling behind the bore is…in that area the incoming waters and the downstream flow meet pretty violently, until the incoming tide wins and the river runs upstream for the next hour or so. But in that first 45 minutes, it was NONSTOP wildness! Well, it did slow down for a few minutes each time Graham and I fell out of the raft. LOL (Big difference from our past white water raft experience—no helmets needed because no rocks!) I will let the photos speak for themselves now.
















I figured I better explain this: the water in the raft was OFTEN up to the rim. When I opted to sit on the bottom of the raft, after falling out twice, it was often up to my waist. And no, we did not stay dry. LOL

We stayed at the place in a cabin, which made it very convenient for the after-raft trip warm shower. The cabin had a gas fireplace which immediately became THE place to be to warm back up. Afterwards, we headed into Truro, the closest decent size town about 30 minutes away, to do some laundry. Dinner was, guess again, seafood.

We stayed in Truro about 4 nights later and watched the tidal bore come by in the evening. So although it is out of sequence, this photo shows what the bore actually looks like. That sandbar/island was covered in about 5 minutes.


Oh, one last note: upstream on the raft trip, as the river itself narrowed, the tidal bore DOES increase in height. When we sped upstream in the raft to come at it again, it was about 2 feet high. YEE HAH!

August 2008 Family Vacation Part 5

August 8
The day dawned, as it had been, with dark cloudy skies. I sent a prayer to my dad, who my mom had declared was in charge of the weather after he passed, asking for a dry day for our activity: we were heading to the Atlantic side of Nova Scotia to go sea kayaking. As it turned out, to all you doubters, it stayed dry and only threatening until dark, when it started to pour! *G* But I am getting ahead of myself.

When I first proposed the kayaking excursion, I had Dan in mind as he had had a long interest, but Graham was concerned about the water temperature. After speaking with the man who runs program, I learned that the Gulf Stream is close to the eastern shore and the water temp there would be warmer than what we felt in the Bay of Fundy. So we planned to join a 4-hour trip.

We got to the area close to noon and noticed a sign for a smokehouse. The woman there told us that the nearest restaurant was at least 30 miles back the way we came, so besides buying some smoked salmon (hey! I realized in the trip planning phase that NOVA lox must come from…here!!), we also picked up small packs of various smoked fish and ate, picnic style, at their outside table.




We then went a few more miles down the road to Coastal Adventures where they also had a small B&B in the home they use in the off-season. At 1:00 they gathered 14 of us and got us suited up with splash jackets (they DID keep us dry this day) and life jackets. Graham and I used a double kayak as did another couple, but everyone else were in singles.




















We did really well for the first part of the trip, which was pretty much located in sheltered water, protected by islands. We finally headed out into the ocean and the wind and the waves wore both Sam and Lisa out a bit. We stopped in another sheltered cove and the leader moved Sam to Lisa’s shorter kayak and the woman in the other tandem kayak took Sam’s, letting Lisa join her husband in the tandem.



The man was visiting his family from Alberta. One of the other guys was an old school chum and when Lisa discovered he lived nearby, I said, “Gee, Charlie, maybe you could tell us where to go eat dinner.” Lisa immediately jumped in “I think we should eat at Charlie’s house!” Charlie grinned and opined “Maybe the Missus would prefer you to come over after you eat supper and we could have a kitchen party.”

And so we did. We ate a local lobster restaurant (no surprise there, eh?) and then, in the pouring rain, heavily relying on the Garmin, we found Charlie’s house. A kitchen party is a pretty regular thing in Nova Scotia (and perhaps other places). In places I have lived, they were called jam sessions. I had suggested to Graham that he bring his recorders on the trip but he brought, instead, his bodrhan (Celtic drum) and one recorder. It turned out to be a great choice! Charlie plays guitar and writes poetry and music. We got there a bit late, having ended the kayak excursion around 5, then washing up and heading out to the restaurant. We also gave the guide and his girlfriend a lift to a local store so they could grab a ride to Halifax for the weekend. We grabbed a bottle of rum for Charlie at the store and headed to his place.

Charlie is a lobster fisherman, so we learned a bit about that way of life. Lobstermen have to buy a license to fish in a certain proscribed region. Each region in Nova Scotia restricts the fishing season for lobsters to two months. So, that is it….Charlie needs to work like crazy those months. The license cost a lot, as much as a million dollars in some areas! Think about that the next time you pay for lobster.

I wish we had a recorder to save the songs and poetry Charlie shared. There were stories about local history and the way of life. Charlie, Shahnaz and Tammy…you are getting this edition of my trip journal…we plan to return and you and your family will ALWAYS have a place to stay here in West Virginia!! Thank you so much for inviting us into your home and sharing your wonderful hospitality!!







Graham is loving this!







The next morning, foggy a bit, we headed out to our next destination on Cape Breton.

















Friday, August 22, 2008

August 2008 Family Vacation Part 3

August 6
Another night in the B&B in Southwest Harbor and since we needed to leave before they normally serve breakfast, they sent us off with muffins so we could head to the ferry. There are 2 main ways to get to Nova Scotia…driving up through New Brunswick (about 12 hours) or by the Cat, a high speed catamaran car ferry that takes about 3.5 hours. Amazing ride....they had 4 areas set aside for movies and a small area with one-armed bandits/slot machines, a duty-free shop with perfumes and booze, and several small food areas. It was a bit pricy, no, change that: it was pretty expensive, but worth saving the time. We left Bar Harbor at 9 in the morning and were docking in Yarmouth 3.5 hours later. Nova Scotia is on Atlantic Time, so we changed one hour.
















(Left) In the front cabin watching for whales. (Above) The fantail from the high speed engine.


We picked a place to eat at random on the main street and happened to find the one place (so he advertised) in Nova Scotia with a singing waiter. None of us noticed the sign but after he took our order and then brought the food to the table, he got the mike on and belted out “I Left my Heart in San Fransciso” What a hoot! We all had seafood again; Graham and I tried the fish cakes, similar to crab cakes but made with haddock and mashed potatoes. Not quite a latke. *G*





We then headed up the coast, first on the coastal road called the Lighthouse trail, but we soon discovered it would take us about 4 hours to go what my mapping and the Garmin indicated would be 2 hours via the main road. So we went back to the main road and then did the last 30 miles or so back on the local road. The main road, by the way, is at interstate standard some of the time, with restricted access, but most of the time the main highways are 2 lane local roads. It takes longer to get from “here to there” because of windy roadways and local speed limits. We opted to take a small local ferry across one of the bays.





















We stayed in the town of Lunenburg which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site because of its Scandinavian history. The town caters to tourists with lots of B&Bs, shops with a lot of local art, and a number of good restaurants. I’ll give you three guesses what we had for dinner......wait, you probably don’t need that many chances by now. *G*














The town had a lot of Victorian era trim work on the houses and I started taking pics, even more fun were the street ornaments on the light poles.

























View across Lunenburg harbor (below) and along road to Lunenburg (above)